The Grape harvest of Andalucia.
Simon Zolan reports
In most wine-growing districts of Spain, the vintage
begins on the feast of St Matthew (21st September). In Jerez it
starts officially on 8th September, the feast of the Nativity of
Our Lady.
Dating from only 1948, the vintage festival is held
at a weekend as close as possible to 8th September. The first grapes
may be picked a week early, especially if the weather has been very
dry and sunny. Frequently the vintage is a week late and lasts about
a month.
The programme each year ís different but
it usually starts with a Grand Procession on the Friday. The Queen
of the Vintage occupies the seat of honour and is surrounded by
her handmaidens, all chosen from the beautiful girls of Jerez, wearing
white dresses and blue silk scarves, representing the white chalky
soil and blue sky that give life and body to the vines.
With pomp and ceremony they are driven through the
streets on carts decorated with grapes and foliage. Children swarm
by, hoping to catch sweets thrown down from the floats and by courtiers.
Men from the town bring up the rear wearing festive masks.
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The Vendemia of Jerez. |
Before the fireworks begin, the procession winds
up in the Plaza de Arenal, where the towns gives homage to the queen
and the "bodegas" offer wine. The fiesta is always dedicated
to the honour of some individual or country where where sherry is
popular. In 1956 it was dedicated to England and Shakespeare.
During the next few days both public and private
parities fuel the atmosphere of rejoicing, day and night. There
are bullfights in honour of the ladies of Jerez with the finest
toreros, with young bullfighters and even a comic bullfight. There
is a horse show, perhaps a motorcycle race, art exhibition, concert
and of course flamenco dance, apart from spontaneous dancing and
merrymaking in the streets. There is no time to sleep!
The most important ceremony is the Blessing of the
Grapes which takes place on the Sunday after a solemn mass in the
Collegiate Church. The architecture may be questionable, but it
is a perfect setting for the ceremony. The writer Richard Ford visited
Jerez in mid-9th century and was unimpressed: "The Colegiata,
begun in 1695, is a vile churrigueresque; the architect did not
by accident stumble on one sound rule, or deviate into the commonest
sense: but the wines of Jerez are in better taste than the temples,
now-a-days more go to the cellar than to the church..."

The priest gives his blessing and the choir bursts
into song. The queen casts her basket of grapes into the "lagar"
(a rectangular wooden wine press). Slowly, the four workmen in short
trousers but not barefoot (they wear special boots to crush the
grapes not the pips and stalks) begin the first pressing of the
vintage. Suddenly the air is filled with white doves and bells ring
jubilantly from the tower. In the evening the town makes haste to
the "feria". The celebrations have only just
begun!
Dates for 2008 Fiestas de la Vendimia in Andalucia
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| The sherry Harvest, Jerez. |
Málaga Province
Cómpeta, Fiesta del Vino in the Plaza de la Vendimia - August 15
Iznate - August (first Saturday) -
La Viñuela Raisin Festival - September 19 and 20
Moclinejo - September 14
Manilva – September (first Sunday)
Córdoba Province
Montilla - September 6 and 7
Cádiz Province
Jerez - September 12 to 24
SanlÚcar Manzanilla
(Wine) Fair
A lively fair dedicated to the Manzanilla which
is a special dry sherry wine produced in Sanlúcar
de Barrameda. This intense fair which is organised by the town
council and supported by the local wine producers last for several
days about the third week in May.
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