VEJER - THE DINING ROOM OF THE COSTA DE LA LUZ
by Annie Manson
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| There are a huge number of eateries hidden away in the white village of Vejer |
One of the most unexpected thrills of Vejer for a first time visitor is the huge number of eateries hidden away in the beautiful Pueblo Blanco. Then a further surprise is that it is almost impossible to eat badly in this gastronomic paradise. Vejer doesn't rely just on summer tourists - there are the regular visitors. If the food isn't good, the restaurant will close.
One would be forgiven for the thought of twin towning Vejer in Cádiz, Spain with Ludlow in Shropshire, UK. Both are out of the way places, off the gourmet map. But interestingly, both have a plethora of spectacularly good eating places which makes Vejer a fab weekend getaway for the food minded.
What has made Vejer this very special little foodie Meca? People would come here anyway because of Vejer's bewitching charm and the proximity to some of the best beaches in the world. However, the culinary adventure in town is such an incredibly easy and happy experience for visitors. Vejer is surrounded by some of the best ingredients in the world. For example, Sherry, fish and salt. The Vejer restaurant scene is totally in tune with these ingredients. Just about every bar and restaurant offers Jamón, sliced in front of you - a copa of Sherry in one hand and a sliver of divine Jamón wrapped around a pico in the other. Then there's yummy chocos, tuna and boquerones. The vegetable gardens of Conil, offering the very best lettuces and tomatoes you could possibly wish for. The prized Cerdo Iberico being offered simply - Presa a la plancha for example - with nothing apart from salt and a squeeze of freshly picked lemon added to detract from the natural flavour if this unique acorn infused pork. The exceptional Retinto beef too. These ingredients make their way into the hands of skilled chefs here, many of whom have absorbed their skills in their family kitchen. Almost all restaurants and bars here are family run. Chefs who believe that less is more and that the perfection of such wonderful local ingredients should be allowed to speak for themselves.
Dining in Vejer can be one long tapas crawl. It really is possible to have dinner by popping into your favourite place for your favourite dish. And then onto the next, for another. There are too many great places in town to suggest a route. Here are my suggestions but you will need a few days to complete the course
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'Garimba' on Plaza d'España has already become a hit. The decor is striking - stunning wooden fixtures and brightly painted old Andaluz tiles. It's even offering Vermouth (typical drink of Madrid).
Along the orange tree lined Corredera the trendy 'Quatro gatos' is into its 2rd month , Solfee offers dishes of the most wonderfully combined flavours - for example Jasmine Tea Cheesecake - not typical of the area at all but will leave you wanting more.
Close to the church, Ramon's 'Viña y Mar' - Vejer's ‘in' wine bar with scrummy tapas (the tiny jars of anchoas from Cantiabra are a must) and a good selection of interesting wines by the glass. As has the 'Taperia' on the Corredera, small but great selection of wines by the glass and different tapas, such as Gambas with Chili & Ginger.
'La Officina', along Juan Bueno,offers only local wines by the bottle and glass. The local wine production is also worth noting - it just gets better and better. Walking along Juan Bueno towards La Officina, on the right, with wooden tables and chairs, you'll see Bar Navarro. This is the best place for pescados fritos. They have everything - including calamar a la plancha. Not just Barbadillo on offer here - Enate Chardonnay from Sonmontano is definitely worth trying.
'El Altillo' on Altozano can turn the humble Chiperon into a star. 'Meson de las Perdicez', in the new town, can pot roast a partridge into a plate of heaven. There are even 2 pizzerias in town with wood burning ovens. .........more »
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