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By Jo Williams
Aracena, the largest town in the Parque Natural
Sierra de Aracena y Picos de Aroche, is dominated by a hilltop ruined
castle and church. Its population has grown rapidly in recent years,
but it has managed to retain a dignified elegance about its streets.
The Portuguese drove the Moors out of Aracena in
1251 before handing over the town to the Castilians in 1267. The
Knights Templar controlled the town until 1312 when the Order was
dissolved. In the early 20th century Aracena was favoured as a holiday
resort by employees of the Río Tinto mining company, who
built the houses in Aracenilla, an area of town past the piscina
(swimming pool) on the Alájar road.
What to see
 The best place to visit first for its splendid panoramic
views over the town and surrounding countryside is the Castillo
(castle). The castle itself now only consists of ruined defensive
walls, but there is also a large church here. You approach the church
through an imposing brick belfry and archway at the top of the hill.
The Gothic-Mudéjar Iglesia Nuestra Señora
de los Dolores was built on the site of a 12th-century
Moorish fortress by the Knights Templars in the 14th century. The
16th-century church tower has the same Almohad sebka brickwork decoration
as that on the Giralda in Sevilla.
Looking north from the castle you can see the unfinished
16th-century Iglesia Nuestra Señora de la Asunción
that still lacks a roof. Opposite this church and also
in the Plaza Alta is the 15th-century Cabildo Viejo, a beautifully
restored former town hall that now houses an information office
for the park (Tel: 959 12 88 25). There are permanent exhibitions
on the park and it has books and maps about the Sierra.
The Plaza Alta was developed as
the centre of Aracena around the fifteenth century as Aracena grew
in terms of population and regional importance. Nearby is the striking
newly renovated Ayuntamiento (town hall), a red-brick building designed
by the renowned architect Aníbal González in 1911,
who worked on the Great Exhibition in Seville in 1929.
Aracena is famous for its spectacular limestone
caves, the Gruta de las Maravillas (the Cave of
Marvels), one of the best caves in Spain (Tel: 959 12 83 55). These
are underneath the castle hill and are similar to those under the
Peña de Arias Montano, near Alájar.
Twelve caves covering 1,200m, with underground lakes and dramatic
limestone formations, are open to visitors. At the entrance to the
caves is a helpful tourist office (Tel: 959 12 82 06) and a small
geological museum with minerals from all over the world.
There is a pleasant paseo (square) in the centre
of Aracena, overlooked by the handsome Casino Arias Montano,
which was designed by Aníbal González. Opposite the
paseo is Café-Bar Manzano, a popular tapas stop with an excellent
choice of typical serrano dishes including a separate setas (wild
mushrooms) menu in autumn. Near the square is the long-established
Confitería Rufino, famous for its fine cakes.
Northeast of town is the Embalse de Aracena
(Aracena reservoir), a great place for cooling off in summer with
some of its shores and picnic areas shaded by gall oaks.
Accommodation
There are a few hotels and a cheaper pensión
in Aracena. Six kilometres west of Aracena towards Fuenteheridos
is Finca Buen Vino, a charming hotel in a converted farmhouse with
cottages for rent, surrounded by chestnut groves and fruit orchards.
A few kilometres north out of town towards Carboneras is Finca Valbono,
an attractive hotel set in woodland which also has cottages for
rent. There is a campsite a few kilometres east of Aracena off the
Seville road.
Walks
West of Aracena is the GR 41.3 that runs all the
way to La Nava taking in Los Marines, Fuenteheridos and Galaroza.
This footpath goes past many groves of sweet chestnut trees, so
it is a particularly beautiful walk to do in the autumn, when the
changing colours of the chestnuts are spectacular.
Southwest of Aracena is a walk via Linares along
the PR A-39 and then the PR A-38 that loops south of the Cerro de
la Molinilla and back along the PR A-48 bringing you back to Aracena
near the swimming pool. It's possible to lengthen this walk by adding
on a circular walk from Linares to Alájar. You continue along
the PR A-38 from Linares which brings you to the tiny hamlet of
Los Madroñeros and then Alájar. Out of Alájar
you take the PR A-48 towards Linares, passing La Presa where you
can take a dip in the river, weather permitting.
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