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| The majestic Montemayor, standing proud over the village of Benahavis |
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To many Andalucíans, native and expatriate
alike, Benahavis is synonymous with food. It has the highest concentration
of high class restaurants in the region and draws visitors by the
thousand who come simply to savour the cuisine.
It also has an extremely high percentage
of resident expatriates who have found its situation and ambience
irresistible. In spite of this, it has remained
remarkably unspoiled, with winding narrow streets ill-suited to
the motor car, and a picturesqueness which almost makes it seem
like a specially-created film set.
It
stands 500 metres above sea level, 7 kilometres inland from
the
Guadalmina Golf Course, and is reached by driving through the rio
Guadalmina gorge up into the hills.
Its
Moorish heritage is emphasised by the existence nearby of the ruined
11th Century castle of Montemayor. As its name implies, this Arab
stronghold squats on top of the highest mountain in the locality,
and anyone wishing to make the climb to visit the ruins and experience
the truly sensational views of the coastline should be prepared
for a strenuous but rewarding effort.
The strife and tension of the Moorish
age, in which Montemayor played a prominent part,
is long gone. Today, Benahavis is seldom quiet during the tourist
season, but the greatest problems are finding a place to park, and
choosing a restaurant. Even the old stone Arab walls around the
town hall have been converted into one.
A notable feature of the village
is La Aldea. Almost a village within a village,
La Aldea was the brainchild of the British sculptor, David Marshall,
whose gallery is one of its main features. Though largely a recent
creation, determined efforts have been made to make this enclave
even more Andalucían than Benahavis itself, with marble fountains,
antiques and old-fashioned doors and grilles.
Inevitably, Benahavis is growing
quickly. On its outskirts new urbanisations are springing up like
mould forming rapidly on an over-ripe peach. But this is not being
allowed to attack the old village, and the visitor who remains steadfastly
at its centre, as most do, might almost be unaware of their existence.
If
possible, a parking space should be found at the entrance to the
village and the tour of its streets undertaken on foot. All too
often this is easier said than done, and the best alternative is
to drive carefully to the Restaurante Los Faroles on calle Málaga,
beside which an enterprising villager has turned a rare spot of
unused land into a welcome and cheap car park.
It should not be assumed that restaurants
are the only eating places in Benahavis. For those not ready for
a heavy lunch there are numerous bars serving excellent tapas and
even a small pizzeria. But its restaurants are its glory, and it
celebrates the fact by describing itself on the road signs that
guide you there as the gastronomic corner of Andalucía. If
you plan to go there, breakfast lightly.
Amanhavis
Hotel & Restaurant
Elegant, rustic hotel and restaurant in the centre of
the village where every room tells a different mediaeval Andalucian
story.
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Benahavis Hills Country Club