Walking - The Alpujarras

Alcornocales | The Alpujarras | Aracena | Axarquia | Cazorla | Grazalema

THE WALK OF THE RUINED MILLS & ARAB BATHS

This walk begins and ends in the tiny village of Ferreirola. For most of the way, it follows old muleteer tracks that twice cross the steep-sided barranco of the Rio Trevelez. Although there are two steep uphill sections, this is an easy half-day walk that you could stretch out by picnicking somewhere along the way - or by stopping for a coffee in Busquistar. This itinerary has a kilometre or so of road walking but there is virtually no traffic and the views are excellent. José and Inge, the owners of the delightful Sierra and Mar guesthouse in Ferreirola (the obvious first choice if you are planning to overnight here) kindly shared this route with me. Ferreirola and Busquistar are not in the least bit touristy and this would be a lovely fist walk in the Alpujarras.

The Route

Your walk begins in the main square of Ferreirola in front of the church.

Pass in front of the four fountains and continue past Villa Kiko and then descend between two stone walls. Continue past a house with two large earthenware pots. The street narrows, doglegs right and then left and you pass beneath a "tinao". Pass a newly build section of high wall on your left and then pick up a path leading out from the village.

Pass by a spring, and then a second one, both just to the left of the path. Your path soon crosses a bridge, descends slightly and then reaches a fork. Here branch left and climb gently upwards. You will see white and yellow waymarking. The barranco (gorge) of the River Trevélez is to your right.

The path divides again. Fork left and soon you reach a track. Here bear right and descent slightly through an area of terraced fields beneath Busquistar. You reach a stand of poplars. Here carry on uphill and then cross a bridge. The path becomes still steeper and you arrive (45 minutes) at the outskirts of the village.

You'll see a sign for Camino a Ferreirola. Here, if you are planning to visit the village, turn left and climb up into the village, but remember that later you will need to retrace your footsteps back to this sign. This path leads up past Casa de Las Lillas where you could have an early lunch (1-4pm). If you're not planning to visit the village, at the Camino a Ferreirola sign turn right down the hill and then go left at a door with a painted arrow, pointing your way.

Continue skirting around the bottom of the village until you reach a sign for Camino del Rio. Go right here and drop steeply down through the terraces. Soon you need to bear left round a house with horseshoe above its entrance.

As you drop down to the river, you'll see wooden posts and red dots marking your way. A footbridge leads you across the river by a ruined mill (1hr) and the path now zigzags steeply up the other side of the gorge. Prepare yourself for a long, steep climb! The path eventually levels and meets with a tarmac road (1 hour 35 minutes) just to the left of the Venta de Relleno.

Turn right onto the road in the direction of Amegijar/Torvizcón. You should continue until you see a group of 5 buildings just to the right of the road (1 hour 50 minutes). Turn right off the road at a marker post and climb up towards these buildings, watching out for a second marker post just to the right of the track. Here turn right, away from the track, and drop back down towards the River Trevélez.

After 5 minutes or so of descending, the path runs just to the left of the overgrown ruin of some Arab baths.

There is little to see now. Ferreirola is clearly visible on the other side of the valley. As you descend you'll occasionally spot marker posts. You cross the river once again, swing left in front of a second ruined mill (2 hours 20 minutes) and climb up the northern side of the barranco.

You reach the fork where earlier in your walk you took the higher option to Busquistar. Here bear left and return to Ferreirola and retrace the path that you followed earlier in the day, all the way back to the square in front of the church (3 hours).


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