Sunflowers are harvested in Castellar.
by Dee McMath
The old village of Castellar de la Frontera is perched
high on a hilltop in the province of Cadiz, with commanding views
over the Guadarranque reservoir. The village is easiest reached
from the C111 road that leaves the coast at San Roque, branching
off to Castellar after just 10 kilometers. This historic fortress
village is famous for its castle - the word 'Castellar' meaning
literally, 'site of the castle'.

The history of the village goes back to prehistoric
times and the Bronze Age, after which the place became a medieval
fortress. The prehistoric presence is still evident in the many
caves around the area, where enthusiasts can see the wonderful cave
drawings as proof of its heritage. It played an important role in
the wars between the Spanish and the Muslims. In such a high up
advantageous strategic position, peoples of many cultures wanted
to control this strong vantage point.
The village was conquered and won back between Fernando
III, the Moors and then Juan II, who described it as "such
a wonderful, strong town". After the many battles of medieval
times, by October 1650 Teresa María Arias de Saavedra, the
Countess of Castellar, took possession of the town and later it
was in the hands of the Medinaceli family until 1973, when the Rumasa
Group acquired it from them. Then in 1983 the Spanish Government
expropriated Castellar and declared it a 'Historical and Artistic
Monument'. By this time, the place was in a state of neglect and
abandonment and the Town Hall invested the equivalent of around
£100,000 in restoration to the old castle and village. The
area within the municipality of Castellar, next to the train station,
known as Almoraima, is now a protected natural area, which is teeming
with wildlife. Agriculture and farming are still main industries
in this area, where a vast quantity of cork is produced from the
cork trees. Wheat, sunflowers, cotton and hay are also harvested
each year and there are over 500 beehives, providing excellent natural
honey. Although with the advent of the Guadarranque reservoir in
the early 1960's, other jobs became available to the local population,
many are still involved in farming and cattle breeding.
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| This historic village is famous for its castle. |
In 1971 the few remaining inhabitants of the old
town were re-housed with modern amenities in Nuevo Castellar in
the valley, about 7 kilometers away. For a while the old town became
a hippy colony and some bohemian people still live there. New Castellar,
with its well-appointed modern houses, wide streets and avenues
and open green zones, is quite a contrast to the old town. The inhabitants
of the old town were pleased to move into these new living conditions,
since the old mountain village houses lacked all the 'mod cons'
we tend to take for granted, such as efficient water and sewage
systems. The striking new white houses are distinctive against the
green of the well-tended gardens. The town's inhabitants, while
forward looking, are also proud of their heritage, which is being
preserved in the mountain castle village.
The luxury hotel trade of nearby Costa del Sol has
not yet exploited this very rural atmosphere and there are few places
to stay overnight. There are some modest hostels and various local
restaurants in the vicinity, where you can sample local dishes.
Annual celebrations in Castellar de la Frontera
- The fiesta of "La Boyal" day - 15th
February. The town celebrates the day that the Spanish took back
land, which previously belonged to La Almoraima.
- Semana Santa (Easter Holy Week)
- 'Romeria' and annual Fair celebrating the Holy
Christ of La Almoraima on the first Sunday in May, with days of
festivities, including dancing, etc. leading up to it. The Sunday
Romeria and procession used to be called "el Domingo de los
ingleses" (Sunday of the English people) because of the number
of Gibraltarians who came along to join in the celebrations.
- In July there is an important Flamenco Festival.
- The Evening of the Divino Salvador is held on
the first weekend of August, when there is flamenco singing, traditional
dancing and other events organized at the Castle of Castellar,
to commemorate the festival of San Salvador, the patron saint
of the town.
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