Málaga Province - Cártama
Ruins of the old Moorish castle of Cártama.

If Cártama impresses the visitor now, as it does, how much more impressive it must have been in its Roman heyday. Not only impressive, but daunting, for it was the site of a formidable fortress. The reason is not hard to find. It stands at the navigable head of the rio Guadalhorce and the castle protected both the town and the river valley.


Secure in its fatherly embrace, the town flourished as a processor of marble and a trading town for the rich supply of raw minerals from the hills. It became rich and fashionable, and was noted for its fine baths and villas, and glorious statues of its favourite gods, Mars and Venus.

So important does Cártama appear to have been to the Romans that they bestowed on one member of a prominent local family the magistratical office of decemvir - one of only three in the entire Baetican province, which in essence coincides with present-day Andalucía.

As the Roman grip on Spain weakened, Cártama's wealth and influence began to wane. In languished through the Visigothic period, but attracted the attentions of the moors, who clearly valued it almost as highly as the Romans. The old castle was in ruins, but the Moors rebuilt it and Cártama was on its way again.

In the dying days of Moorish rule, the unstoppable Christians decided that Cártama was the perfect place from which to lay siege to the big prize of Málaga. It was 1485, and the Moors of Cártama had little stomach for a fight. The town fell easily, and the final siege of Málaga was set.

Though the statues and the villas and the trappings of wealth are now less than memories, the ruins of the castle still stubbornly stand guard high on the hilltop overlooking the town. They can be reached, but only after a strenuous climb.

Below them, but still high above Cártama's twisting streets, is the shrine of Nuestra Señora de los Remedios - the town's patron saint - which is still a focus of reverent pilgrimage for the locally devout. During the Civil War of 1936-39, the statue of the Virgin was taken from the shrine by the Nationalists to protect it from possible destruction at the hands of anti-clerical Republicans. It was taken to South America and used to raise funds for Franco's cause, only returning to its home on the mountainside once the war was won.

Though Cártama has lost much of the lustre it has, it does have an odd place in Spanish literature. In 1565, Antonio de Villegas published the romantic story of Jarifa and Abindarráez - a romantic tale concerning the love of the daughter of the mayor of Cártama for a man she thought, mistakenly, to be her brother. In time the story was retold by writers as renowned as Cervantes, Lope de Vega and Chateaubriand, assuring it of literary immortality. Love, it seems, really does outlive riches.

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