Valle del Zalabí
by Shenai Martínez Fernández
Valle del Zalabí was formed in 1973 through the merger of four towns: Alcudia de Guadix, Exfiliana, Charches, and Rambla del Agua. Located in the region, the area features several cave accommodations and is home to roughly 2,300 residents.
History
The history of Alcudia de Guadix dates back to indigenous settlements in the Zalabí, originating at least as far back as the Argaric period. Its more recent roots trace back to the eighth century, when the Syrian Yunds settled under Caliph Walid. A new settlement was subsequently established between the tenth and eleventh centuries.
Under Muslim rule, the town was known as Alcudia Alhambra (“Alcudia the Red”) due to the reddish hue of the surrounding slopes. In 1489, it was conquered by the Catholic Monarchs and incorporated into the Crown of Castile. By the sixteenth century, Alcudia had developed a strong reputation for its agricultural wealth, featuring extensive communal lands, and piped water to all homes. It was also famous for its baths, which hosted evening ceremonies—particularly during wedding celebrations.
Exfiliana originates from the Roman Ex-Julia (meaning "outside Guadix"), founded around 306 AD by the area's first Christians. Following the arrival of Muslim rule, it was renamed Tustar (or Xustar), before returning to Yxfilyana in the sixteenth century. After the Morisco revolt in 1568, the town was depopulated when its 25 Morisco households were expelled, later being resettled by 10 "Old Christian" families. On 16 May 1708, the renowned Baroque sculptor Torcuato Ruiz del Peral was born in the town's Barrio Alto. By 1750, the Ensenada Cadastre recorded Exfiliana as a town of 80 houses and five flour mills. Local livelihoods centred on silk production and cultivating orchards, vineyards, poplar groves, and various fruit trees.
The origins of Charches are less precise, though it is widely believed to have originated in the sixteenth century as a settlement for shepherds from La Calahorra. Legend has it that 12 families settled there, dividing the land into 12 equal plots. This established the town's traditional water-rotation system, where each plot was allocated 24 hours of irrigation in turn. By 1846, the Madoz Dictionary recorded that Charches formed its own town council alongside El Raposo and Rambla del Agua.
La Rambla del Agua originated around the fifteenth century as a shepherd's farmstead under Aldeire, later passing to Dólar before joining Charches in 1853 to form a single municipality. Its population peaked at nearly 500 inhabitants across the turn of the twentieth century. However, an exodus began in the 1950s, culminating in severe depopulation during the 1960s that left the village completely abandoned.
In 1974, these settlements officially merged into Valle del Zalabí, designating Alcudia de Guadix as the primary settlement.
Things to see
Lavadero (Charches)
This historic public washhouse once supplied drinking water to the town, provided a place to wash clothes, and fed irrigation streams for the surrounding valley. After the water flow stopped, a nearby well was drilled, which ultimately dried up the original spring. It can be found on Calle Sainz Pardo.
Recinto Amurallado del Zigüeñí
Located within the Zigüeñí archaeological site, this upper plateau sector preserves the layout of a medieval farmstead. The outer walls of the dwellings are accessible via a single entrance gate—a layout similar to Castillejo de Los Guájares. It was designated a Site of Cultural Interest and registered as a National Monument on 29 June 1985.
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Asunción (Exfiliana)
Located in Plaza España, this church retains original Mudejar brickwork, and adobe caissons despite extensive remodelling. Its oldest surviving feature is the coat of arms of Bishop Antonio del Águila (1537–1546) above the lower portal.
The original single nave features an octagonal end. Over time, a main chapel with a domed ceiling and several side chapels were added. Of particular note is the right-hand chapel dedicated to the Virgen de la Cabeza, featuring a wide brick entrance arch built in the Mudejar style. The bell tower was added in the late eighteenth or early nineteenth century.
Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de la Anunciación (Alcudia de Guadix)
Construction began in 1545 following the demolition of a former mosque. Master mason Francisco Roldán led the build, though disputes arose over structural flaws in the archway and main body. Stonemason Pedro de Riaño added the main Renaissance doorway between 1560 and 1562, designed by Juan de Arredondo.
Originally built as a single nave, the church was expanded over the centuries to include side aisles, a sacristy, and a bell tower. The Renaissance doorway was moved to the front facade in 1820. Inside, the baptismal chapel features fine Mudejar woodwork, including an octagonal timber ceiling with intricate latticework. The church is situated in Plaza de la Constitución.
Iglesia de Santa María de la Piedad (Rambla del Agua)
Built in the early nineteenth century on elevated ground in Barrio Rambla del Agua, this church features a two-tiered plaza layout. Entrance is through a semicircular arched gateway. The raised altar area houses a part of the Virigin, with the sacristy situated directly behind. The interior is topped with a 10-metre timber-beamed roof, complemented by a simple exterior bell tower.
Ermita de San Buenaventura (Alcudia de Guadix)
Situated in Barrio San Buenaventura, this chapel stands on the site of a former medieval castle. Following a severe plague outbreak around 1500, locals carried an image of San Buenaventura to a hilltop cross in prayer; when the epidemic subsided, the event was declared miraculous. A chapel built in 1920 was completely renovated in 2002 under the direction of local priests Rafael and Manuel Varón Varón, alongside José Ortiz Valero.
Plaza de Toros (Alcudia de Guadix)
Located on Avenida José Fuentes, this 3,000-capacity bullring was built in 1985 to replace temporary portable arenas. Construction was led by Mayor Juan José Fernández Martínez and Works Councillor Torcuato Valenzuela Ruz using local labour. The inaugural event took place on 25 July 1985.
Museo Etnologó (Rambla de Agua)
This museum showcases traditional life, rural tools, clothing, and historic photographs from La Rambla del Agua and the Sierra de Baza. Established through an educational initiative in 1990, the collection was catalogued by local students before winning an award from the Regional Government of Andalusia. Visits must be arranged in advance by telephone (958 661 217).
Outside of Town
Ermita del Zalabí y de la Virgen de la Cabeza
Situated south-west of Alcudia de Guadix, this chapel grounds contain archaeological remains from the El Argar culture. The site marks a historic boundary between local municipal lands. The western wall features traditional rammed-earth mortar (tapiar), while the remaining walls are whitewashed brick. A natural spring channel runs alongside the site, long reputed by locals for its exceptional purity.
Natural Areas
Tejea del Zalabí
Dating back to the eleventh century during the Andalusian period, this stone culvert system was engineered to collect underground spring water for agricultural irrigation across the valley.
Cuevas de los Anteojos
Located on the cliffside opposite Exfiliana along the left bank of the Guadix River, this cave complex features historic troglodyte structures cut into the rock face. The site includes a watchtower and a three-level refuge (Covarron-Refugio de los Anteojos), accessible via steps carved into the rock wall. The upper level contains a concealed trapdoor defence system designed to protect the entrance.
Gastronomy
Local dishes to try when visiting Valle del Zalabí include sopa con papas (potato soup), sopa de panecillos (broth with giant croutons), fritá de conejo (fried rabbit), ajillo de conejo (garlic rabbit), arroz con conejo (rice and rabbit) and rin ran (orange and cod salad). Sweet treats include buñuelos (dumplings), roscos fritos (aniseed doughnuts), borrachillos (liqueur sponge) and manjar blanco (cinammon custard).
Bus Service
A regular regional bus service operated by BAM connects Valle del Zalabí directly to Granada City. The main bus stop is located in Alcudia de Guadix. More>
Tourist Office
The tourist office of Valle del Zalabí is located in the Town Hall.
Nearby Places
The neighbouring villages to Valle del Zalabí are Albuñán, Guadix and La Calahorra.