Alameda

Alameda

By Diana Sierra

The village of Alameda, situated some 70 km north of Málaga on the historic road to Seville, is nestled among the rolling hills. Its winding cobbled streets lead to the Church of the Immaculate Conception, where the Patio Mausoleum of José María El Tempranillo is located. This place is a key stop on the José María El Tempranillo Route, which offers a blend of cultural heritage and natural beauty. With a population of around 5,439 inhabitants, Alameda is an ideal destination for those interested in cultural and rural tourism.

History

Alameda was first settled as a town by the Phoenicians, but there is archaeological evidence of habitation dating back to Paleolithic and Neolithic times, probably  2,500 BCE. Vestiges of these settlements can be seen at the Necrópolis Calcolítica just outside the town, a system of over twenty interconnected burial pits or ossuaries, some a metre wide. This small town of barely 5,000 inhabitants north-west of Antequera is probably most famous for its cadaverous celebrity El Tempranillo, the legendary 19th-century bandit born in nearby Jauja and buried in the Church of the Immaculate Conception in Alameda. The so-called Principe de la Sierra, prince of the mountains, is the most colourful of Andalucía's many bandit heroes.

Alameda was also an important settlement in Roman times, with the remains of a Roman villa and baths, and a wealth of artefacts discovered suggesting a major trade and military base at the site in the first century BC. The remains of the baths are maintained in a 3000 square metre enclosure in Calle Enmedio, and have been dated to between the first and third centuries AD. The site is now a preserved national monument.

Like much of the area, it was inhabited by Visigoths and later by Moors in the 8th century. The Catholic took the town in 1240, relatively early in the Reconquest. When the new Spanish order was established, the town, then a small hamlet, was placed under the control of the Marqués of Estepa, to the north-west of the town. The area itself was under the rule of the Order of Santiago - the Knights of St James - until 1559, a time when Alameda had barely thirty inhabitants. The town grew during the 17th century, thanks to its specialisation in esparto grass, wood, and carpentry (one version of the origin of its name is from a poplar grove), and an influx of settlers from Estepa itself.

In 1883, Alameda was incorporated into the newly created province of Málaga, under the control of Archidona. This was an unpopular and confusing decision in a village that was still under the orders of both the bishop of Estepa and the archbishop of Seville. The town was only placed under the orders of the archbishop of Málaga as late as 1959.

Things to See

 “El Tempranillo” routes

The ‘El Tempranillo tourist routes are located throughout several villages in this corner of the provinces of Málaga, Córdoba, and Seville. They invite visitors to discover the landscapes, stories, and historical landmarks related to the short life of José María ‘El Tempranillo’ (1805 to 1833). These routes offer a journey through the history and folklore of southern Spain.

El Tempranillo Mausoleo

José María Hinojosa Cobacho, known by his nickname ‘El Tempranillo’, was a infamous Andalucian bandit who rom. His tomb is located in the inner courtyard of the emblematic Church of the Immaculate Conception. This courtyard, called Patio Mausoleo de José María ‘El Tempranillo’, is a typical Andalusian courtyard, surrounded by arches and decorated with flowers, reflecting the essence of Andalusian aesthetics, colourful and rich in traditional architectural details.

The patio is open October to March, Tuesday to Saturday 10.00 – 14.00 hrs and 16.30 to 18.30, Sundays 10.00 to 15.00 hrs. From April to September Tuesday to Saturday 10.00 – 14.00 hrs and 16.30 to 20.00, Sundays 10.00 to 15.00 hrs. you have to go to the Centro Temático del Campo Andaluz nearby or call 951 192 252  and ask to see the El Tempranillo Mausoleo where a person will attend to you visit. Note there are no visites when a service is taking place in the church. 

Rotonda José María “El Tempranillo”

The José María “El Tempranillo” roundabout is located in front of the church. It pays homage to the famous 19th-century Andalusian bandit with a statue depicting him in his characteristic attire. In addition, the roundabout marks the start of several tourist routes that allow visitors to explore places related to the life and legend of “El Tempranillo”.

Posada de Jose María “El Tempranillo”

The Posada de José María “El Tempranillo” is a rural hotel which pays homage to the Andalusian bandit El Tempranillo. The building has rooms decorated in Andalusian style and offers the opportunity to delve into the history and legend of the famous bandit.

Calle “El Tempranillo”

The calle “El Tempranillo” is located near the roundabout and other points of historical interest, such as the Patio Mausoleo de José María “El Tempranillo” and the Posada de José María “El Tempranillo”. It is also part of the tourist routes, not a pretty street but the ceramic street sign is worth a photo. 

Centro Temático del Campo Andaluz

It is an ethnographic museum that shows the agricultural traditions of the area, highlighting the cultivation of wheat and olives, as well as the extraction of limestone, a historical activity that contributed to the characteristic white colour of Andalusian houses. The centre also pays homage to the Spanish poet Antonio Muñoz Rojas, who adorns the rooms with his verses.

Silos and Necropolis Calcolitica 

It is an archaeological site with circular pits dug into the rock dating from the Chalcolithic period, around 2000 BC. These structures have been interpreted as a necropolis, although they may also have served as silos for storing grain. Admission to the site is free.

Baroque Church of the Immaculate Conception

The Baroque Church of the Immaculate Conception was built in 1696, the church tower being a later addition, along with the remarkable rococo altar piece at the head of the nave. The church was expanded sideways in 1779 with two new aisles, supported by eight massive pillars, to accommodate the town's burgeoning new population. The tomb of El Tempranillo can be seen in the church's interior patio.

Fuente de la Placeta

The main focus of Alameda is the central Fuente de la Placeta, built from delicate local stone at the time of King Carlos III, in the Plaza de España. Until recent decades, it was still the main source of fresh water for the town, and the sizeable width of the fountain's base, built perhaps deliberately, made it impossible to fill a large pitcher without leaning over and falling into the fountain. Townsfolk developed a trick of putting the pitcher on the ground and filling it using a hollow cane reed. 

Plaza de la Constitution

Plaza de la Constitution is a tree-lined square with benches where townspeople take their evening paseo, a walk. It also serves as the starting point of Calle Real, one of the main shopping streets in Alameda.

Outside the Village

Mirador de la Camorra

The Mirador de la Camorra offers views over the town and surrounding landscape, some 250 metres higher than Alameda's 430 metres above sea level. 

Laguna de la Ratosa

A couple of kilometres west of town is the Laguna de la Ratosa, like the nearby Fuente de Piedra, a place to find flamingos and other migrating birds and an abundance of other wildlife.

Handicraft

The town still specialises in its work with esparto grass, wood and carpentry, in particular silleria, the production of wood seats.

The Ars Textum Málaga (24–27 June) is a cultural event that highlights the work of contemporary Andalusian artisans. The exhibition brings together creators from across the area, offering a platform for both traditional craftsmanship and modern interpretations. Among the featured disciplines are esparto weaving and woodworking. Visitors can expect live demonstrations, artisan stalls, and workshops designed to celebrate and preserve these techniques while promoting innovation within the craft sector.

Gastronomy

Local meals include rice with rabbit or hare, porra antequerana (a thick chilled tomato soup with tuna and boiled egg), and migas, a rustic dish of fried breadcrumbs with garlic and sausage. Almond and garlic-based sauces are also commonly used, and extra virgin olive oil features prominently in everyday cooking.

Alameda offers a range of homemade desserts such as pestiños, roscos, mantecados, gachas, and sopaipas. The town also hosts a ‘Sabor a Málaga’ Gastronomy Day each December, showcasing local produce and dishes through tastings and live cooking demonstrations. 

Festivals

Here are some of the most popular festivals in Alameda.

Cabalgata Reyes Magos

The traditional Cabalgata de los Reyes Magos (Three Kings Parade) is celebrated on 5th January. 

Carnival

The carnival in Carratraca takes place in February. Residents don costumes and participate in satirical performances, including murgas and comparsas (local musical groups).

Semana Santa (Holy Week)

Holy Week in Alameda features religious processions from Palm Sunday (Domingo de Ramos) to Easter Sunday (Domingo de Resurrección). The entire town takes part in these events, which include decorated floats and traditional music.

Candlemas (La Candelaria)

Candlemas is celebrated on February 2nd. At nightfall, locals take part in a torchlit procession through the streets, each carrying a lit candle. This atmospheric and symbolic celebration is rooted in both Christian tradition and local folklore.

 Pilgrimage of San Isidro Labrador (Romería de San Isidro)

 The Pilgrimage of San Isidro Labrador is held on 14 and 15 May in honour of the town’s patron saint. Locals decorate their streets and take part in a procession with ox-drawn carts and horse riders, ending with a festive gathering in the countryside. 

August feria

The August feria is held in the first week of the month. It features five days of open-air concerts, traditional dancing, street parades, daytime festivities in the central square (La Placeta), and evening events in the Caseta Municipal. There's something for all ages, from fairground rides to live flamenco shows.

Weather

The weather forecast for the next few days for Alameda. More > 

Bus services

Alameda is part of the Málaga Area Metropolitan Transport Consortium.

The following interurban bus route currently serves Alameda:

• M-265: Alameda – Mollina – Antequera – Málaga

This line provides a direct connection between Alameda and the city of Málaga, with stops in nearby towns such as Mollina and Antequera.

For connections to other destinations in the area (e.g., Fuente de Piedra, Sierra de Yeguas, Campillos), passengers may need to change buses in Antequera or Mollina, depending on the service.

For the most accurate and up-to-date timetables and journey planning, please visit the official website of the Metropolitan Transport Consortium of the Málaga Area: www.ctmam.es 

Tourist Office

The Municipal Tourist Office of Alameda is located at Plaza de España, 5, 29530 Alameda, Málaga. 

Find out more information here >

Phone: +34 952 710 025 

Email: [email protected] 

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