Christmas Festivals - Belen Viviente

Belen Viviente

by Chris Chaplow and Fiona Flores Watson

One of the most delightful features of Christmas in Andalucia are the belenes vivientes, or living (live) nativity scenes, where many of the townsfolk dress up as characters to take part, using the town's streets, houses and plazas as their stage set, starring alongside four-legged actors - sheep and donkeys. Cadiz province is famous for its belenes vivientes.

The dates vary from place to place, but they usually run from the first week in December (the Puente de la Inmaculada) to the first days of January (Reyes Magos). They usually operate from about five in the afternoon up to eleven at night - some are one day only, while others open at weekends and holidays.

Belenes vivientes are ideal for children and families, with locals of all ages dressed up, stories and singing, and animals.

Typical scenes are the Anunciación of the Arcángel San Gabriel, the visit of Isabel, the dream of José, the orders of the emperor, the birth of Jesus, the adoration of the Reyes Magos, and the flood of Egypt.

In many locations accompanying market stalls sell local food produce and handicrafts.

Sometimes the Reyes Magos are present, offering an opportunity for children to deliver their present-request letters directly to the Three Kings, or Magi.

CADIZ

This province is so well-known for its belenes vivientes that you can follow a route across the hills from one pretty town to the next, with a few on the coast as well.

Medina Sidonia  
This impressive one-day belen viviente takes place in the Barrio de Santa María of Medina Sidonia, with 60 different scenes and 600 villages taking part.  The different scenes run for 1000 metres, from calle San Francisco de Paula along to Plaza del Llanete, Síñigo, Cervantes, Alonso Picazo, Nuestra Señora de la Paz, Puerta del Sol, Alarcón, Plaza de las Descalzas, Padre Vedelín, San José, Plaza Iglesia Mayor, Vicario Martínez y Puerta de Belén. Additioial parking is provided in the Polígono Industrial, with buses laid on to ferry visitors to the town centre. Takes place either one or two Sundays before Christmas.

Arcos de la Frontera  
Arcos de la Frontera has a belen viviente in the beautiful Plaza del Cabildo in front of the Parador Hotel and other surrounding streets from five in the afternoon until eleven at night.

It claims to be the largest in Spain. Tracing the nativity story from the Visitation to the Birth, it features various colourful scenes with extravagant costumes and flamenco-influenced music, including a Jewish wedding, Roman centurions and King Herod's Palace, complete with belly-dancers.  

It takes normally place in the evening, on the last Saturday before Christmas. More>

 

 

Vejer de la Frontera
The Belén Viviente of Vejer de la Frontera will take place on Sunday 1st December 2024 from 13.30 to 19.30 hrs. This is the 18th edition and transforms the walled town into the village of Judea. it features around 35-40 different nativity scenes. A recomended itenerary after parking the car and entering the village on Calle los Remedios is - Calle Plazuela, Calle Nuestra Señora de la Oliva, Atrio de la Iglesia, Panteón de la Iglesia, Calle Marqués de Tamarón, Calle José Castrillón, Plaza del Padre Ángel, Calle Ramón y Cajal, Calle Castillo, Calle Guzmán El Bueno, Puerta Cerrada, Calle Judería and Calle Juan Bueno. Belén Viviente is organised by the local scout group, Edén 309, in collaboration with the town Council.

Tarifa
Located in an atmospheric location: the patio at the castle entrance in Tarifa, Spain's most southerly port town, this belen viviente sees 25 townsfolk play out popular scenes from the days before the birth of Christ. Visitors follow an organised itinerary, and can see handicrafts, animals, and can even stop at an inn to taste locally-produced wine and cheese. In the market you can see stalls with goods from this era, wandering vendors, and in the entrance of San Mateo church is a display of la Anunciación. It takes place over three days on the weekend before Christmas.

Espera
In Espera, the traditional belen viviente which takes place on the last Saturday before Christmas (14th Dec 2024), with various locations including a cave under the Castle of Fatetar and the Hermitage of Santísimo Cristo de la Antigua, natural settings that are special for this very Christmas event. 

Benamahoma
Benamahoma celebrates its Belen Viviente on 14th December 2024 from 12:00 to 20:00. This small village near Grazalema will be transformed into a nativity scene, with its charming streets as the backdrop. There will also be a Christmas souk (market). 

Medina Sidonia
The Medina Sidonia Belen Viviente takes place from 12:00 to 19:00 on Sunday 15th December 2024 in the streets; San Francisco de Paula, Llanete de Herederos, Bohórquez, Tintoreros, Cilla, Plaza de la Iglesia Mayor, at the back of the gardens of Calle Cilla and Arco de Belén. More than five hundred residents participate in the nativity scene, bringing to life the camp of the three kings, the Roman registration office, craftsmen's workshops, fields, shepherds' work, merchants, Herod's palace and also the palace of the three kings, the hairdressers, the butchers and the bakers.

Ubrique
The town of Ubrique is famous for its leather goods, has a belen viviente across many locations in the old town on a Saturday before Christmas. The 2023 marks the 20th Living Nativity Scene which will take place on Saturday 16th December at 6 p.m. in the Ubrique old town.

San Roque
The main San Roque Belén Viviente takes place on second or third Saturday and Sunday (Saturday 14th and Sunday 15th December 2024) in December from 11.00 to midnight (Saturday) and 22.00 (Sunday) near the parish church of Santa Maria La Coronada and the Plaza de Armas. This nativity scene is organised by the Hermandad de Nuestra Señora del Rocío de San Roque. It includes nativity figures with animals, craftsmen, merchants and Roman soldiers.

El Gastor
El Gastor celebrates its Belen Viviente on 21 December at 17:00. It is centered around Plaza de la Constitución and Calle Callejón.

Other towns in Cadiz where you can see a belen viviente are Rota, Alcalá del Valle, Olvera, Chipiona, Benalup,  Algeciras and Prado del Rey.

HUELVA

Beas
The belén viviente in Beas is the oldest in Andalucía and the second-oldest in Spain. It started in 1969 and takes up more than 3,000 m2. Around the Belen is a traditional market of chestnuts, home-made sweets, chocolate, ceramics and traditional handicrafts. Weekend and holidays, evenings and mornings, from late November until early January.

Galaroza   
In Galaroza the belén viviente is located around the Cerro de Santa Brígida. Weekends and holiday evenings during December and early January.

Linares de la Sierra
In Linares de la Sierra the three kings is particularly important. Bonfires are lit in the streets to keep everyone warm, stalls sell hot drinks and snacks. Rather than a formal procession, the villagers open their front doors and set up makeshift belenes vivientes (living nativity scenes) and up to 1,000 visitors come to the village to see. Watch the video.

Puerto Moral
Puerto Moral in the Serrania de Aracena holds its XIII edition Belen Viviente on 5th, 6th and 7th December 2024. Held in a natural ravine; the Barranco de la Madrona just outside the village. Usually from 17:30 to 20:30. Entrance for a small donation.

JAEN

Fontanar
The belén viviente of Fontanar, a hamlet in Pozo Alcón municipal district in Jaen province, takes place on Christmas Day afternoon, with 300 villagers taking part. The streets of the hamlet are decorated for the occasion, which started in 2004. The children may also deliver their letters to the Reyes Magos.

MALAGA

Almayate
Almayate is perhaps the best know in Malaga province.  Started in 2001, this belen viviente in the nearby town of Velez-Malaga The belen viviente of Almayate takes its nativity scene from  Almayate's traditions. It is mixed with modern culture of theatre and music, combined with the latest in audiovisual. The theatrical and musical performance lasts 90 minutes and takes place outside the Juan Paniagua public school in the town of Vélez-Málaga on last weekend in December. Seating for 900.

Seville 

Castillo de las Guardas
In Castillo de las Guardas nativity scene in Seville, which has been held every year since 2004, will open its doors from 8th December 2024 to 2nd January 2025. It has been held at different locations around the city, but now it will take place at the Mirador del Castillo, one of the city's most important monuments. It focuses on three scenes from the life of the baby Jesus: the threshing floor, Nazareth and Bethlehem.  The setting is particularly beautiful at night. The entrance fee of 2 euros will be donated to the cultural association 'El Nacimiento'. The association sets up a small bar with typical local sweets.

 

 

Sanlúcar La Mayor
In Sanlúcar La Mayor 300 people take part in the Belen Viviente. Here there is a focus on the many different 'trades of years gone by; the potter moulding clay, the blacksmiths forging metal, the threshers in the fields, the carpenters shaping wood. Even the beggar (El Mendigo)is included, his shabby clothes and witty remarks. This character, full of charisma and wit, he interact with the visitors. Experience history and tradition in Sanlúcar la Mayor on 6th, 7th, 8th, 9th and 14th and 15th of December 2024 from 16.30 to 20.30 hrs. Admission 3€. Takes place in the west of the village near Plaza San Pedro.

In Seville province other belen vivientes traditionally take place at Cantillana.

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