Sunshine and tapas, a way of life in Seville |
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Cafés and bakeries in Seville
Going out for afternoon coffee has always been part of the culture here, and cakes have steadily improved in quality over recent years. In such a warm climate, ice-cream is also popular. Menus have expanded massively, taking in bagels, breakfast bowls, and smoothies. Brunch has also become popular - ideal for peckish late-rising visitors
Filo
This place, between the cathedral and Plaza Nueva, is popular with students, thanks to its cool rustic-chic decor - esparto grass blinds and exposed brick walls. Impressive menus of salads, wraps, bagels, juices, smoothies etc. Try the mango chicken curry sandwich.
Located at Hernando Colon 19
Paradas 7
Close to the VO cinema, Avenida 5 Cines, and Plaza de Armas, this café was one of the first in Seville to offer novel options such as bagels and juices. Pretty interior with exposed brick walls. Great brunch (entire dedicated menu including bagels, breakfast bowls of fruit and yoghurt, and juices), as well as excellent salads, sandwiches and soups – and kombucha. Note that it closes at 4pm.
Located at Marques de Paradas 7
Mr Cake
Pretty décor – elegant bar stools and velvet-seated chairs - at this café in Puerto Osario. Look out for the plantain, spice and Solera 1847 (oloroso Sherry), or lemon, apple and basil cakes.
Located at Diego de Merlo 3
Ofelia
Cute café down a narrow street in the Alfalfa, with minimalist chic décor and friendly service. Light-filled interior, with a few outside tables. Tasty baked goods include cupcakes, cinnamon rolls, and plenty of vegan options. Located at Calle Huelva 5
Chök
Chocaholics will delight at this Barcelona-based chocolate specialist bakery! Superbly light-textured croissant-donut crossovers called krönuts, and iced cupcakes, but they don’t come cheap. Branches behind El Salvador church, and between Sierpes and Plaza del Salvador.
Located at Plaza Jesus de la Pasión 8 and Calle Sagasta 20
Domi Vélez
Lauded as the best bread-maker in the world, Lebrijano Domi’s loaves include a dense sourdough, spelt bread, and Payoyo cheese, pistachio and honey, as well as molletes (Andalucian bread rolls). Cakes are good too.
Located at Calle Álvarez Quintero 10
La Campana
This café is an institution in Seville, serving all the cakes and pastries beloved by locals as they enjoy a pit-stop after a hard morning's shopping. During Semana Santa you can get coloured Nazareno sweets (the penitents wearing long robes and hoods) which make a fantastic, if bizarre, souvenir. Otherwise traditional goodies include yemas (sweets made from egg yolks) and lenguas de almendro (almond biscuits).
Located at Calle Sierpes 1
Collette Patisserie - Boulangerie
With an authentic French vibe, this pretty bakery on bustling Calle San Eloy has delicious pastries such as croissants, pain-au-chocolat, dainty tarts, and macaroons. Great for a shopping-trip break in the Tiffany-turquoise shaded interior, or watch the world go by from the terrace.
Located at Calle San Eloy 13
La Cacharreria
All-day sandwiches, smoothies, and salads from breakfast to evening in this characterful place with quirky décor on calle Regina, between the Setas and calle Feria, as well as lunch-time burgers. Delicious home-made jams and bread, huge choice of toast toppings (fully-loaded gourmet versions are perfect for brunch). Also good early-bird deals on cocktails.
Located at Calle Regina 14
Cookie Love Love
Made by Deborah, an American, these cookies and brownies are the real deal – sweet, chewy and delicious, with flavours like Oreo cheesecake, Dirty velvet (red velvet and Oreo), Crack (chocolate, marshmallows and cornflakes), and Sobresaliente (brownie-filled chocolate). Vegan versions available. Her own shop is close to the Alameda, but you can also find the all-American goodies in various cafes and restaurants around the city – see the Cookie Love Love website. Located at Molino 11B
Manu Jara
This French chef has become a byword for pasteleria excellence in Seville – he even offers pastry courses. His “bocasús”, little filled choux buns in flavours like carob, mango, and violet, are exquisite. Other treats include raisin and nut bread and prettily packaged bags of cookies.
Located at Calle Pureza 5 and at the Gourmet Experience in the El Corte Inglés store at Plaza del Duque.
Tetería Baghdad
This cosy Moroccan-style tea house is decorated in soothing tones with lots of floor cushions, rugs and low lighting. If you need a change of scene from bright, noisy, tiled tapas bars, this is the place to come. Recline in comfort with an exotic tea served in a pretty tea glass. Perfect for a good, long chin-wag. Located at Calle Pureza 22.
BRUNCH
Casa Orzáez
Opened by the folks from cheese-makers Mare Nostrum, based in the Sierra Norte de Sevilla, this elegant eaterie-shop has two branches, in Triana with fabulous rooftop terrace (breakfast, and lunch and dinner on certain days) and San Bernardo (breakfast).
Located at Betis 67, and Puesto 28, Mercado de la Carne, Avenida de Cádiz 33.
La Mala Brunch
On a small street just off Sierpes and at the Setas, this place has a mind-boggling selection brunch options, from breakfast bowls and bagels to pancakes. Well-priced.
Located at Calle Rivero 7 and Las Setas
Restaurante San Fernando, Alfonso XIII
The King of brunches, with a regal price tag of 65 euros, this Sunday afternoon buffet spread (13-16h) includes everything from cold meat, pastries and fruit, to eggs and pancakes cooked to order, to smoothies and sparkling wine. Located at Calle San Fernando 2
See also La Cacharreria and Paradas 7 above.
