Sunshine and tapas, a way of life in Seville |
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Traditional Tapas Bars in Seville
You can’t book a table at these places – walk-ins only; in some, you order at the bar, and also collect your food from there. Stand at the bar, as the locals do, or sit at a table; sample a few small dishes at one place, then move on to another. More about tapas here.
Las Columnas/Bodega Santa Cruz – cheap, cheerful, and equally popular with locals and visitors alike; close to the cathedral. Always packed and buzzy; stand outside and watch the world go by. Choose from the long list of tapas and montaditos (small grilled sandwiches) on the wall by the bar.
Taberna La Goleta/Alvaro Perejil – Tiny, characterful spot round the corner from Las Columnas – you’ll have to fight your way to the bar to order. Stand up inside, or grab a pavement table outside. Good orange wine.
La Fresquita – close to the above two (therefore perfect for a short tapas route), this small bar is full of Semana Santa memorabilia. Very sevillano.
Las Teresas – another institution, in barrio Santa Cruz; stay inside and sit at the bar for the full experience. Great jamón ibérico, carved behind the bar; the salted pig legs hang above your head. Don’t miss the Feria and Semana Santa posters adorning the wall.
Bar Alfalfa – tiny bar with a great atmosphere; you’ll have to wait for a table, but the waiters’ antics will keep you entertained. Fabulous bruschetta.
Casa Vizcaina – classic, well-loved joint on Calle Feria renowned for its ice-cold beer. Always people spilling out of the doors. Tapas are simple but tasty.
Bodeguita Romero – this perennially popular bar in the Arenal district is so in demand you need to start queuing at least 15 minutes before it opens. Traditional tapas cooked to perfection; wide choice of fish and seafood.
Casa Morales – close to the cathedral, this proudly old-school bar has front section where you sit or stand at tall tables, and a rear part for sitting, lined with huge clay wine jars; it feels like being in a museum, in a good way. Plenty of tapas to choose from, and lots of wines too.
Golondrinas – excellent value bar with two of its three branches in Triana: a large one on Pagés del Corro, the tiny original one (our favourite) on calle Antillano Campos, plus a new one near Plaza San Francisco in the centre, with a small outdoor terrace. All have the same reliable menu.
Santa Ana – next to the church and plaza of the same name, this English-Spanish owned bar has striking traditional décor - neo-Mudejar tiled arches, and a huge terrace next to the church. Great service and decent tapas.
Fish and seafood specials
Apart from Cañabota (above), its little brother next door Barra de Cañabota and Salmedina (Alfalfa district) are both good bets for seafood lovers, with plenty of market daily specials. Also try upscale La Sal (Santa Cruz) and more down-to-earth La Cantina in Calle Feria market (Macarena).
Architecture
Cerveceria Giralda near the cathedral was originally an Arab baths, with barrel and vaulted ceilings featuring star-shaped holes and painted decoration. The tapas are so-so, but worth having a beer and a tapa to see the 12th-century interior. Nearby Italian restaurant San Marco Santa Cruz also has a fascinating interior, previously another Arab baths, with typical horseshoe-shaped arches.
Good outdoor terrace restaurants and bars in hotels
Great rooftop terrace bars at Los Seises behind the Archbishop’s Palace (the bar is Pura Vida), Hotel Inglaterra on Plaza Nueva, Casa Romana on calle Trajano, and Radisson Hotel on Plaza Magdalena (live music some weekends). Recoveco at Vincci UNUK in Alfalfa is a good rooftop restaurant, while the Alfonso XIII hotel’s Eña terrace is an elegant place, as you’d expect from such a majestic hotel, with a wide menu.
